Shoe welt



Feb. 23, 1965 c. R. JOHNSON 3,170,253

SHOE WELT Filed May 18, 1964 11 10a 11a 10 10b 11b 10a 13 18 16 I FIG 2INVENTOR CURTIS R. JOHNSON BY M,Mg4/

ATTORNEYS 3,170,253 SHOE WELT Curtis R. Johnson, Creve Coeur, Mo.,assignor to Brown Shoe Company, Inc., St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of vNew York Filed May 18, 1964, Ser. No. 367,974 lClairn. (Cl. 36-78) Thisinvention relates to a novel welting for use in welted shoes and toimprovements in welted shoes realized from this novel welting.

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Patented Feb. 23, 1965 Turning now to FIG. 3 a typical welted shoeconstruction is illustrated-and includes an insole 15 to which issecured a flexible rib member 16 as in the usual shoe construction. Theshoe upper 17 is lasted over the insole and the rib member 16 inthe'usual way, and the welting is then positioned over the upper 17 andis It is an object of this invention to provide a novel welting havingcharacteristics which result in a better welted shoe. 1

It is also an object of this invention to provide a welted shoe in whichbetter flexibility and a stronger shoe can be obtained.

A further object of the invention is to provide welting that is adaptedfor flat lasting and presents a greatly extended surface for cementingof the out-sole so as to avoid stitching the out-sole as in a Goodyearwelted shoe.

welting is made in length and to a uniform dimension so that theincorporation thereof into shoes can result in improved construction andquality. An important characteristic of the improved welting is theextremely wide scarfed margin of flexible form so that it will notdetract from the flexibleness of the shoe.

stitched in place by a line of stitching 18 which is'located in thewelting groove 13 and extends through the upper and the rib member 16.During the stitching operation the scarf edge 11 of the welting is bentat an angle to the pre-fudged edge 10 so that the Goodyear stitchingmachine may be utilized in the customary way to join the several parts.Upon completion of the stitching operation the rib member 16, the upper17 and the scarf edge 11 of the welting are then flat lasted to theinsole 15. step of the shoe construction the surface 11b of the scarfedge 11 extends inwardly from the line of the stitching 18 so that thereis a wide strip of material inwardly of the stitching line to receivesuitable cement or adhesive by which the out-sole 19 may be secured tocomplete the shoe construction. The final assembly is shown infragmentary sectional view in FIG. 4 in which a suitable adhesive orcement 20 has been applied to the surfaces 10!) and 11b of the weltingso that the out-sole 19 has a considerable cemented connection inwardlyof the pre-fudged edge 10. Before the out-sole 19 is placed, fillermaterial 21 is disposed in the more central area of the insole in orderto compensate for the slight thickness of the several layers A preferredembodiment of this invention is disclosed in the accompanying drawing,wherein:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the welting of this invention;

FIG. 2 is an end view of the welting;

FIG. 3 is a fragmentary sectional view of the welting inseamed to aninsole and upper; and

FIG. 4 is a fragmentary sectional view after inseaming and lasting.

Referring to the drawing, the improved welting is illustrated in FIG. 1,and as there shown comprises a strip or length of material of uniformtexture, strength and dimensions which may be produced in a continuousof the welting process if desired. Specifically, the material may beeither leather or plastic, and it is characterized by having a wheeledor'pre-fudged edge 10 and a scarf edge 11 separated on one side by ashoulder 12 and separated on the opposite side by a groove 13. Theshoulder 12 and groove 13 are substantially opposite each other and areparallel with the outer margin 10a of the wheeled edge and the innermargin 11a of the scarf edge. The scarf edge 11 is provided with apluralityof spaced slashes 14 extending inwardly from the inner margin11a so as to render the welting flexible in its horizontal plane as isviewed in FIG. 2 for permitting the welting to be con formed to thecurvature of shoes.

In FIG. 2 there-is shown a sectional view of the welting and it ispointed out that the edge 11 is wider than the edge 10. In themanufacture of the welting it is preferred that the under surfaces 10band 11b of the edges 10 and use substantially flat and in the sameplane. The outer margin 10a of edge10 is relatively thin compared tosections thereof inwardly toward the shoulder 12. This is to provide fora thinner appearance in the welting once those portions of the shoeconstruction which lie inwardly of the pre-fudged edge 10 as will beapparent upon inspection of FIG. 4.

of material comprised by the rib 16, the upper 17 and the scarf edge 11of the welting;

The improved construction allows for a considerably flatter finalcontsruction of the several parts, and avoids the usual inseam trim stepwhich is required of the ortho dox welted shoe having a rib member whichis very stiff since it is not capable of being flat lasted. There isconsiderable economy possible in the improved shoe construction and animportant improvement in the security of attachment of the out-sole 19is a cemented construc-.

For example, the pre-fudged edge 10 was approximatelyeight-thirty-seconds of an inch wide, the scarf edge was approximatelyten-thirty-seconds of an inch wide. The shoulder 12 was madeapproximately one-sixteenth of an inch high and the overall thickness ofthe strip of material substantially at the shoulder 12 was,approximately sixthirty seconds of an inch. It is, of course, recognizedthat the welting may be useful in narrowervor wider strips, and in whichcasefthe foregoing dimensionspwould be proportionately reducedorincreased, It is also possible to utilize the improved weltingmaterial in thefusual brogue type shoe by having the outer margin 10a ofthe" pre-fudged edge 10 as thick or nearly as. thick as the more centralsection of the welting.

While the foregoing description refers to a preferred form of theimproved welting and has described a welted shoe construction utilizingthe same, it is understood that variations may come to mind afterappreciating the advantages hereof, and it is the aim and object toinclude changes and variations within'the appended claim.

.What'is claimed is: I e 7 ,As a new article of manufacture, 'a welt foruse in the manufacture of flat lasted shoes, said' welt being formed Inthis I 3 of flexible matr a Y n an 9W9? d e taperin q a relatively thinouter margin inwardly, a longitudinal shoulder spaced inwardly from saidouter margin and being parallel to said outer margin, said welt having ascarf edge extending from said shoulder to an inner margin and theportion of said welt between said inner margin and shoulder convergentlytapering toward said inner margin, and said welt having a flat bottomsurface opposite said scarfed edge and between said outer and innermargins, and a stitch receiving groove in said bottom surface locatedbelow said shoulder and extending parallel with said shoulder, saidgroove reducing the thickness References Cited by the Examiner UNITEDSTATES PATENTS 2,345,738 4/44 Field 36-78 X 2,390,485 12/45 Wright 36-172,775,829 1/57 Vizard 36-78 2,921,389 1/60 Ferreira 36-17 3,046,679 7/62Maertens et al 36-17 3,078,601 2/63 Shea 36-78 3,113,388 12/63 Rubico36-78 FOREIGN PATENTS 1,150,159 8/57 France.

924,426 3/55 Germany.

of the welt to increase the flexibility thereof in bending 15 JORDANFRANKLIN, Prim zry Examiner.

transverse to said longitudinal shoulder.

FRANK J. COHEN, Examiner.

